Our little float plane - call name Golf, Bravo, Delta Whiskey - skips across the Arctic Ocean and launches enthusiastically into the sky. To reach Elu Lodge you have to pass through Cambridge Bay - Cam Bay - and I stayed there several days. Though rustic - all knotty pine with clothes hangers that are caribou antlers mounted on the wall - it is luxurious by Arctic wilderness standards. We climb to the 500-foot-high tabletop of Mount Elu, where stone inukshuks - man-shaped Arctic trail markers - stand guard. I spend an entire afternoon picking tundra blueberries outside my cabin watching hyper-active Arctic ground squirrels - “sik siks” - bouncing across the tundra. We scramble - road runner-style - for our lenses as Peter grabs his gun and the rest of the day we follow his every adolescent move from sitting feet-out in a blueberry patch filling his face to chasing sik siks and standing up on his hind legs to sniff the breeze. read more

